Date: Thu, 27 Jan 1994 05:08:00 -1000 From: wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) Message-Id: Organization: Novell, Inc Subject: Hot Cutting Surfaces I'm about ready to start cutting ripstop for my first kite project. I've got the soldering iron with the woodburning tip, etc. But I haven't yet purchased a surface to do the hot cutting on. I'm having a hard time finding an affordable (scrap?) piece of glass to cut on. Is there any other material that any of you have used before as a cutting surface? I'd like something rather thin and portable that I could store behind a bookcase or something and then put it on a table when needed. Any ideas? Thanks! Wes wvoss@novell.com = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 15:11:15 -1000 From: dbell@lobby.ti.com (Dick Bell) Message-Id: <940128191115@dbell.dseg.ti.com> Organization: Texas Instruments Inc Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces In article wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: Stuff deleted >> Is there any other material that any of you have used before as a cutting >> surface? I'd like something rather thin and portable that I could store >> behind a bookcase or something and then put it on a table when needed. >> Wes, "something rather thin and portable....put it on a table when needed." Your description is exactly what my requirements were when I began to look into a suitable working surface. At first I even thought that I would like to have built a glass covered light box. Instead I found that all I really needed was a sheet of plastic laminate. The same kind that is used on most of the kitchen counters. I bought a sheet at "Home Depot" (cheap) that was around the size of our dining table. I just pull the sheet out of our garage and place it on the table top. The plastic laminate can be had in a variety of colors and textures and I have not had it burn or melt at all. I like it better than glass because of the non-slick texture. This keeps my material in place while cutting and the cutter does not seem to slide around. If you do decide to get a sheet to work on, consider that depending on the surface that you place the sheet on could be slick. Slick enough that the sheet my slip around. Just glue a thin piece of rubber at a few places under the sheet and it should become stable. Also, it will be necessary to have one of those razor blade window cleaner tools on hand as after about a thousand cuts the sheet will have some melted rip-stop deposited, so you will most likely want to scrape it off from time to time. On a different subject, I am in the process of building a bigger working surface to do all my work on. I went down to "Home Depot" and purchased a non finished door. The door is 36x80x1 3/4 inches, no holes cut or anything. Cost was $25. I'm going to buy two cheap half height file cabinates to place at each end. To make a desk, that when I place my plastic laminate on the top becomes my sewing/cutting area. If I finish the door correctly then this setup should look presentable as a piece of furniture when not in use for kites.:-) I would have bought a sewing center, but they wanted $650 and it wasn't big enough. So far, I have less than $100 invested and when I get the door stained and varnished I think (Hope) that it will work and look better. -- --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Dick Bell dbell@lobby.ti.com (Work) dickbell@netcom.com (Home) Dallas, Tx. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 06:11:20 -1000 From: sc5@prism.gatech.edu (CSEPLO,STEPHEN P) Message-Id: <134661@hydra.gatech.EDU> Organization: Georgia Institute of Technology Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces In article wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: >I'm about ready to start cutting ripstop for my first kite project. I've got >the soldering iron with the woodburning tip, etc. But I haven't yet >purchased a surface to do the hot cutting on. I'm having a hard time finding >an affordable (scrap?) piece of glass to cut on. > >Is there any other material that any of you have used before as a cutting >surface? I'd like something rather thin and portable that I could store >behind a bookcase or something and then put it on a table when needed. Cheap mirrors are good, like the type you would buy at K-Mart or similar store. Many people like Masonite underlayment. A 4' X 8' sheet will run a few $. I heard people talk about using Formica, but don't know never having used the stuff. Gentle breezes, Steve -- Steve Cseplo |A| The Mad Hata sc5@prism.gatech.edu |K| AKA Region 4 Director |A| "Hey, mon...Tako Kichi!" = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 11:55:17 -1000 From: markus@mwhh.hanse.de (Markus Witt) Message-Id: <1994Jan28.215517.17503@mwhh.hanse.de> Organization: Nothin' is organized here. Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: > I'm about ready to start cutting ripstop for my first kite project. I've got > the soldering iron with the woodburning tip, etc. But I haven't yet > purchased a surface to do the hot cutting on. I'm having a hard time finding > an affordable (scrap?) piece of glass to cut on. > > Is there any other material that any of you have used before as a cutting > surface? I'd like something rather thin and portable that I could store > behind a bookcase or something and then put it on a table when needed. > > Any ideas? I use an old and blind glass mirror. It's a long and narrow one (about 50cm x 150cm) and allows you to cut long parts without rearranging the fabric. The line where you cut gets stuck to the glass but can pulled of it without problems. Not really the kind of answer you asked for, but a simple way to get your hands on a piece of glass with nice dimensions and very smoothly rounded edges. Markus (hearing the wind howling around the house) -- Markus Witt, Hamburg (Germany) + Forgetting your superuser markus@mwhh.hanse.de + password is just God's way of + saying "BOOGA, BOOGA!" = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 07:02:35 -1000 From: sasaki@das.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki) Message-Id: Organization: Harvard University OIT/NSD Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces In article , wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: >I'm about ready to start cutting ripstop for my first kite project. I've got >the soldering iron with the woodburning tip, etc. But I haven't yet >purchased a surface to do the hot cutting on. I'm having a hard time finding >an affordable (scrap?) piece of glass to cut on. Check with places like window companies and such. They often have pieces of glass that are scratched or otherwise damanged that they might sell inexpensively. >Is there any other material that any of you have used before as a cutting >surface? I'd like something rather thin and portable that I could store >behind a bookcase or something and then put it on a table when needed. I've used aluminum flashing with pretty good results. You probably want to put something under the flashing if you are going to cutting on a valuable surface. Many folks use masonite, the fabric sticks a bit to the surface, which means that it doesn't move around much after it has been cut. Don't use formica though. It is a thermoplastic, and will melt if the tip of your hot cutter is hot enough. -- Marty Sasaki Harvard University Sasaki Kite Fabrications sasaki@noc.harvard.edu Network Services Division 26 Green Street 617-496-4320 10 Ware Street Jamaica Plain, MA 02130 Cambridge, MA 02138-4002 phone/fax: 617-522-8546 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 28 Jan 1994 17:12:11 -1000 From: mark@murder.demon.co.uk (Mark de Roussier) Message-Id: <759838331snx@murder.demon.co.uk> Organization: damage Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces In article sasaki@netop3.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki) writes: > > In article , wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: > >I'm about ready to start cutting ripstop for my first kite project. I've got > >the soldering iron with the woodburning tip, etc. But I haven't yet > >purchased a surface to do the hot cutting on. I'm having a hard time finding > >an affordable (scrap?) piece of glass to cut on. > > Check with places like window companies and such. They often have > pieces of glass that are scratched or otherwise damanged that they > might sell inexpensively. > I got a great piece of glass via a Bank refurbishment - they threw the old bullet-proof glass in a skip ! A friend at the Bank fished some bits out. Half inch thick, seven layer glass/plastic laminate. But NOT flexible, and you need a *strong* table to put it on !! I've come across a guy who uses a sheet of steel, with magnets to hold down the fabric - you could probably get away with quite a thin, flexible sheet. -- Mark de Roussier ************************************ A nice man is a man of nasty ideas. Jonathon Swift. ************************************ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Sat, 29 Jan 1994 20:38:59 -1000 From: kyteman@aol.com Message-Id: <9401300138.tn01967@aol.com> Organization: Division of Applied Sciences, Harvard University Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces Wes, try a piece of glossy plastic laminate, e.g. formica. the better stuff can be used for years without undue damage; the cheaper stuff is easier to burn grooves in at the beginning and end of the stroke, but still works fine. chin UP brooks kyteman@aol.com = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Mon, 7 Feb 1994 10:41:48 -1000 From: jmnelson@TIGGER.STCLOUD.MSUS.EDU Message-Id: <1994Feb7.154150.8417@msus1.msus.edu> Organization: ST. CLOUD STATE UNIVERSITY, ST. CLOUD, MN Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces I suppose glass and hard laminates would be nice, but I have been using Masonite, or similar hardboard, for years. I use cardboard or wood cutting guides, and masking tape for patterns. Have several overlapping patterns, and I cut right over the masking tape without problems. I used a small iron for tacking and some cutting, but serious cutting is done with a large, old, (circa 1955) Weller soldering gun with a cutting tip. The big gun leaves a bit of a trail, but doesn't burn too much. I also find that wood straight edges (1x2's and 1x4's) work great. Good luck. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 02:58:53 -1000 From: sritter@umi.com (Sam Ritter x3111) Message-Id: <2j82ad$shd@news.umi.com> Organization: University Microfilms Inc. Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces Just to toss in my $0.02 worth -- I've been watching this thread and I believe only one person mentioned it. ( sheet metal cutting surfaces ) I have a 4' x 8' table that I probably only spent $50 on. The sheet metal cost me only $20. Under that, for a table, I have two sheets of 7/16 wafer board for a total of 7/8 thickness, and this is supported by 3 extra tall saw horses for now. Eventually I'm planning on making this a real workbench with shelves and racks for fabric and templates. For templates, I use aluminum flashing material. If you are only making one or two kites of the same pattern, cardboard patterns should be fine. If you want to make more than that, it is suggested to use the aluminum. I believe the aluminum is harder that the cutting tips most widely used and so the cutting tip doesn't wear on the pattern. The aluminum is fairly cheap also. I just got a 50' x 24" roll for around $30 dollars. Some people may think that that could be expensive, but it really lasts, and doesn't wear out. And to hold the patterns down on the fabric, I use a bunch of 3/4" button magnets. Hope this helps and gives people ideas. Like I said at the start of this post, just my two cents worth. Sam sritter@umi.com = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 14:42:37 -1000 From: jeffy@syrinx.umd.edu (Jeffrey C. Burka) Message-Id: <2j9bht$ebm@umd5.umd.edu> Organization: University of Maryland at College Park Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces In article <2j82ad$shd@news.umi.com> sritter@umi.com (Sam Ritter x3111) writes: >For templates, I use aluminum flashing material. If you are only making >one or two kites of the same pattern, cardboard patterns should be fine. >If you want to make more than that, it is suggested to use the aluminum. Over the past several years, I've used three different sorts of paper products for my patterns: posterboard, thin corrugated cardboard (from large boxes) and a quite heavy posterboard I get at an art supply store in 32"x40" sheets. The posterboard is most suitable for applique's. It's thinness makes it extremely easy to cut curves and small pieces. I tend not to use it for large pieces because it's too flimsy. I find it hard to trace around the posterboard with a pencil, though I've not had trouble with my soldering iron. For hot cutting, I don't think I'd expect more than 3 uses of a posterboard pattern. The cardboard is pretty miserable because it's very difficult to cut cleanly. While I've made usable patterns (most notably my full-scale Tracer 1/2 pattern, which has produced several extremely good kites and was the measurement basis for my much-beloved 3/4 tracer) but I try to avoid the stuff when possible (sometimes, when I'm working on a big pattern piece it's too convenient to pass up). For the most part, the heavy posterboard is my favorite. It's difficult to cut, but still easier than dealing with the multi-level cardboard. It's easier to draw on (my mechanical pencil point pops through cardboard). It's nice 'n thick which makes it easy to trace with a pencil or a hot cutter. And it holds up surprisingly well. I've got pieces that have been used 10 or more times and are no worse for the wear. Jeff (putting off patterning his latest applique) -- |Jeffrey C. Burka | "Everything is still with a fear of never coming out | |Suffering Bad Grammar| Never following through / Never ever finishing | |jeffy@syrinx.umd.edu | What we wanted to do." -- Melissa Ferrick | = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 8 Feb 1994 09:42:02 -1000 From: ctwr10@email.mot.com (Jim Dean) Message-Id: Organization: Motorola Tech Writing Subject: re:hot cutting surfaces Sam Ritter writes in his article about sheet metal cutting surfaces and aluminum templates. Just to add a few cents worth of my own, not about the cutting surface but about the aluminum templates, I have a friend of mine who owns an offset printing firm. He has given me some used aluminum printing plates >From his 22 X 34-inch offset printing press. I personally have not used these for cutting material but I am sure they would work just fine. These could be obtained from most printing houses just for the asking. I know that european printing sizes are not the same as here in the U.S.A. but there should be something nearly the same size available. Regards: Jim +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | Jim Dean | Disclaimer: The views and opinions | | Technical Writing Services | expressed are mine | | Motorola, Schaumburg, Il | alone and not those | | Internet: ctwr10@email.mot.com | of Motorola or its | | Motorola X400: ctwr10 | subsidiaries. | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 15 Feb 1994 15:24:48 -1000 From: andrew@tug.com (Andrew Beattie) Message-Id: Organization: /usr/lib/news/organisation Subject: Re: Hot Cutting Surfaces wvoss@novell.com (Wes Voss) writes: >[what to hot-cut on?] In Peter's workshop, they use smooth, hard board for templates - these seem to last much better than I would expect, damage comes from mis-handling (corners broken off), rather than burning away. They have a large area of floor covered with this material for cutting large designs, which they replace yearly and glass tables for smaller stuff. High quantity work is done mechanically on a glass table with a hot-knife that traces a full-size plan on an adjacent table. Have you ever seen his baby octopi? (a flat, kiddies kite) 8 are cut from about 2.5m of fabric. 4 heads at one end, 4 heads at the other, tentacles interlaced, the machine just patiently follows the pattern. Andrew -- Work: gaffer@rec.com Phone: +44 793 614 110 Fax: +44 793 614 297 Play: andrew@tug.com Phone: +44 256 464 912 My mailbox was accidentally deleted while I was on holiday - I may have missed mail between mid-Jan & mid-Feb :-( = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =