Query: Lines for Rokkaku

In article <23toir$5id@kelvin-02.cs.strath.ac.uk> pat@cs.strath.ac.uk (Patrick Prosser) writes:

 >> In article <1993Aug5.043445.21702@serval.net.wsu.edu> chubbard@beta.tricity.wsu.edu (Charles William Hubbard) writes:
 >> >Could someone please describe a Rokkaku for me 
 >> Six sided kite, pointy bit at the top. 3 sticks, 2 as cross spars
 >> and 1 as spine. Cross spars are parallel to each other, and at
 >> 90 degrees to the spine. Think of rok as a rectangle with a
 >> triangle on top, and a triangle at the bottom.
 >> Cross spars are bowed. Traditional Jap fighting
 >> kite. Also copied, and patented, by Marconi (used to hoist ariels)
 >> >Evidentally the generate a lot of pull for their size.
 >> No, quite a gentle kite for its size. Pound pull per square foot 
 >> of sail is probably same as for a delta or malay, but much less than
 >> for a soft kite.
 >> >Are they easy to launch?  
 >> So so. They can be a bit unstable close to the ground, so a
 >> high start is prefered. Since the kite is rigid, you need 
 >> to be sure that the bridle setting is "nearly" okay prior to
 >> launch so that it doesnt crash heavily and self destruct.
 >> >Are they easy to fly?  Are they stable in the air?
 >> Yes. Yes. Rok is a favourite with ariel photographers.
 >> However, rok can be set up so that it is unstable, and
 >> therefore manoeuverable (for fighting). By taking out 
 >> bow from the bottom cross spar you can induce yaw, and exploit
 >> this. Rok should be considered as an all weather kite. It can
 >> be adjusted for light wind, and for strong wind. 
 >> >Oh yea, how do you pronounce Rokkaku anyway?
 >> rok-ak-oo, or just rok.
 >> I am in the process of perfecting my 2m rok. I am now
 >> changing the x spars from ramin to f-glass. Unfortunately 
 >> the strength of the glass broke the bow string attachment
 >> points so I need to make new pockets. I will go thro a number
 >> of permutations of spar material. I've used ramin dowel
 >> but I think that it doesnt bend to well. The glass bends
 >> but its awfully heavy. I may try "flat" strips of ramin next.
 >> I feel that I have "perfected" the sail and the bridle
 >> Once I am confident that I've perfected the 2m rok I'll
 >> build a few and make them available (sell at cost).
 >> (I think I have built about 10 roks to date, 2m and 1m.
 >> I am happy with the 1m roks. I got 1 first and 1 second place
 >> in the Washington round of the UK 1m rok challenge. I cant 
 >> remember how the 2m kite got on).
 >> Patrick searching-for-the-perfect-2m-rok Prosser
Patrick,  Rick Roberts (AKA Fighter Champion) showed me how he sparres
his ROK.  On the leading edge of the skin, instead of pockets he uses
split rings that are sewn on with several stitches (~ 20 stitches)
close to the skin. The spar's are fiberglass "tubes" that have a
short piece of solid fiberglass rod inserted and glued.  The rod is
inserted around 2-3 inches and extends out from the tube about 1/2
of an inch.  When the sparr is put to the kite, you just insert the
short piece into the ring.  Almost forgot...the area where the ring
is attached is reinforced with dacron patches.  If the ring is placed
on the material correctly the ring and rod will not protrude from the
edge of the skin, but will be set flush.  My experience with ramin
(wood) sparrs is a bad one.  I have had one of my wifes sewn kites
break a ramin dowel and put a real nice hole in the skin 8:<  I havn't
used wood since.  Hope that you can use any of this info.

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